In a week's time, I will be leaving for France to begin my Camino. This medieval trek became prominent for European Christians when travel to the Holy Land became treacherous in the tenth century -- although in those days, the Pyrenees could be equally as daunting. Points of origin exist throughout Europe, although the two traditional starting points are Lisbon, Portugal and St Jean, Pied de Port in France.
The popularity of the Camino in recent years has been enhanced by its portrayal in literature (for instance, Paulo Coehlo's The Pilgrimage or Shirley Maclaine's Camino: Journey of the Spirit) and film (The Way starring Martin Sheen, and Lydia Smith's 2013 documentary The Camino: Six Ways to Santiago), and in 2014, more than 200,00 people made their Camino.
The traditional three reasons for walking the Camino are religious, spiritual and physical -- indeed, at the conclusion of the pilgrimage during the interview for one's Compostela (the certificate of completion), the pilgrim is asked about their motivation. For me, it is a combination of all three: my own religious nature and the discipline of a 40 day walking retreat; the spiritual exploration of privation and shared experiences; and the sheer physicality of turning 60 and being on the cusp of old age.
And the simple fact is that it will be an adventure.
Many years ago, my youngest daughter made the observation, after an interrupted flight to Chicago where she had to spend a night in transit in a hotel at 10 years of age rather than go back to her mother's home and try to fly another day, that "there are two kinds of people in the world, Daddy -- those that like adventure and those that don't. You and I like adventure, don't we!" Yes, Little Honey, we do. We do like adventure.
But how do you get there?
Financially, I had some Continuing Education funds available, including a small grant; occupationally I had several months' sabbatical time accumulated; and personally, the support of my parish, my partner and my family. The timing was right.
So I figured out a budget that would include travel, anticipated expenses for accommodation and meals, and the kind of hiking gear that I'd need (boots, sleeping bag, etc.), and some extra time at the end of the pilgrimage for time in Paris or London. I was able to borrow a 40 litre backpack and walking sticks and purchased John Brierley's Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago ($45) http://www.caminoguides.com/guide.html.
Then I decided on a time frame...many pilgrims endeavour to reach Compostela for the Feast of St James on July 25, but my piety doesn't extend that far. The autumn has been my traditional season for vacation, the weather agreeable, and some significant dates in my life (Michaelmas -- Sept 29 -- as my ordination date as a transitional deacon; All Saints -- Nov 1 -- one of my favourite festivals of the church year).
Travel arrangements weren't as easy as I thought they'd be: because I didn't know my exact return date, dependent as it would be on finances and stamina, I considered an open-ended ticket, but the price was prohibitive. In the end, I booked a one-way flight to Paris on Iceland Air ($740) and figured I would book my return via award travel on Aeroplan (the Air Canada partner) for whenever/wherever (either Paris, London, Madrid or Amsterdam) after I complete the walk.
Passport renewal for 10 years was $165 (no visas required for the Eurozone), and the required Credencial del Peregrino -- the official document of the Pilgrim, stamped each day and used for the hostels and albergues on the Camino was $15 from the Canadian Company of Pilgrims http://www.santiago.ca/.
In the end, my "time budget" became to leave Sept 15, overnight in Paris on the 16th at an Air B&B property, take the train to Biarritz (€64) from the Montparnasse station, ground transit to St Jean (through a bulletin board, I made contact with a fellow pilgrim from Holland who will share a car), overnight in St Jean, and begin walking on Sept 18. I have budgeted 40 days for the walk -- it's a nice biblical number -- although many people complete their Camino in 32-35 days. This means that I should be finishing around Oct 28.
My firm return date is Nov 10 in order to be able to officiate at the Cenotaph service on the 11th, although I would take any convenient flight. But this does offer the possibility of some European travel...I've never been to Paris, I'd love to go to London, perhaps Brussels or Amsterdam. Regardless, it will be an adventure.
Wishing you a great adventure, my pilgrim friend.
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