Thursday, September 17, 2015

Paris to Biarritz to St Jean Pied de Port

After the bar, we went our separate ways to pursue our accommodations. It seemed like a very long day. I was up and out of might be in to be in Paris at 5:30 in the morning. I took the metro (the wrong direction) but then a very helpful kiosk attendant gave me walking instructions to a very good route.  At the Montparnasse Station i had time to have a Smoothie (€4.90 medium), and while walking down the quai met two Australian women and an American easily identified as pilgrims.  We chatted for a few moments but weren't seated together, so they were "buon camino" encounters.

Not so with my taxi companions--I had made arrangements with my Dutch fellow pilgrim Ruud (we had corresponded by email several times and exchanged photographs) that I would meet him at the airport in Biarritz (€1 city bus from the train station) and we would make arrangements to share a taxi to SJPDP. Since I got there first, I engaged the cabdriver who informed me that it would be €100 for 1 to 4 passengers.  There were several pilgrims on the flight that Ruud had taken; two younger Dutch women agreed to share the fare, and we made our way to SJPDP.  Between their English, and my French, we arrived without incident, sat down at the first bar that we saw for a beer, and proceeded to get to know one another. 

We went our separate ways to pursue our accommodations, but by chance met again at the Pilgrim office later in the afternoon. We decided that we would meet at 6:30 and have supper together.

And now here is where I am probably a bad Pilgrim. The B&B where I had made arrangements to stay I expected to be the same as last night – one twin bed and a shared bathroom. Not so!! It was an ensuite with a jetted hot tub, separate shower, two twin beds and a cot if needed.  I asked Tim the proprietor if I was to be sharing, but he said of course not!  ($78 Canadian or €55).

Some of the most gracious hospitality was at the pilgrims office.  Staffed by multilingual volunteers, they do everything they can to make the beginning of the Camino as easy as possible, and give you the first stamp in your Credencial. 

I went to the old church before supper, and sat in the silent dark space, and offered prayers of gratitude for the lovely people that I had met, the Providence which seems to have worked so well for me so far, and sufficient grace and strength to begin my pilgrimage tomorrow.

I met up again with Ruud and my taxi companions, and we decided that we would go to Chez Edouard to enjoy the Pilgrims' meal -- vegetable soup, spit roasted chicken, fries, and a light cake for dessert. Oh, and red wine! All for €12.

In an earlier post, I mentioned that I was not bringing my watch. One of my observations today is that in these medieval towns there are a number of public clocks, and chimes on the hour. A reminder of a simpler time.

And so now I am in bed in a very comfortable room, ready to rest (if only my body would recognize what time zone it's in), and excited for the morning.

TIP OF THE DAY:  make arrangements to take the train the whole way (ie. Paris to Bayonne, then a local train to SJPDP).  I know it was very pretty, and I met some wonderful people, but it wasn't the most efficient way to get here. But then again, maybe that's the point of the Camino!

Today's steps: 8,801

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