And so it ends

I have said many times on this journey, the pilgrimage is defined by a return home. If you just go somewhere, it's a vacation, or a trip, or maybe even a journey or move, but a pilgrimage means that you must return to the place where you started.

And so I return home today. The journey itself is pretty nondescript valthough Air Canada's imaginative routing from Paris to Halifax via Montreal and Ottawa does raise a question mark or two.

But I included some goodwill on the return trip. Every morning, there was a street person – panhandler – sitting near the doorway at the hotel. Every morning I said 'bonjour' to him, and he said 'bonjour Monsieur' to me. Today I surprised the hell out of him: I had saved all my small change in centimes from Europe. I filled his cup with what was probably eight or €10 of small change.  His 'bonjour Monsieur' quickly changed to 'merci Monsieur!' and when he noticed my suitcase a 'Bon journee, Monsieur!' It's not quite the same as a Buon Camino but I felt the intended blessing.

Transportation around Paris is a piece of gateau.  From the Metro station Guy Moquet (named for a Second World War resistance leader), two train changes and I was at terminal 2 Charles de Gaulle. Airport. 

I have a super duper Amex card that gets lounge passes, which are very nice; and usually I don't think much about it, but today there is a story.  One of my Facebook friends noted how cool it felt to be Canadian since the election - it felt super cool in the lounge in Ottawa this evening when several bets of parliament including the leader of the New Democratic Party Tom Mulcair were there (Mulcair was sitting right behind me).  

And so ends the saga of El Peregrino Dave.  There will eventually be a couple of summary posts and advice columns. But this is it 

Would I do it again?  Maybe but I'd need a good reason.

Has it changed my life?  Maybe, but other people will have to tell me, because I'm not objective. 

Have I learned anything?  Maybe, but mostly things I'll keep to myself. Except for the rants and observations I've put on here. 

And thank you for making this pilgrimage with me!

Today's Music:  I Would Walk 500 Miles ((The Proclaimers)

Today's Paces: 8,214 (but one ocean, two continents, and trains, planes and automobiles (since Kathy will be waiting at arrivals!))

Tomorrow's Prayer Intentions:  the Parish Apple Pie Sale.  Parish life goes on even when I'm far away!

Last day in Paris

Being a typically autumn rainy day in Paris, with hopes that it would clear up after lunch, I headed to the third of the three art museums that I was visiting. Having been to the Louvre, the d'Orsay today was l'Orangerie, a museum idedicated to 20th century French art.  Because it is a smaller gallery, situated in one corner of the Tuilieries gardens, there was virtually no lineup.  Part of the gallery is dedicated to a complete installation of Monet's Nymphades (Water Lilies) in two large oval shaped rooms that Monet himself designed and dedicated as a place of quiet and peace. The space is very much like a temple; even the people there were remarkably quiet.  I sat there for about a half an hour simply looking at the paintings, and reflecting on my last month and a half. I have had quite a time of it; I am feeling a little nostalgic about going home, but i realize that I can't stay in Neverland/Wonderland forever (even if I COULD afford it!)

I'm glad I went to the Louvre, the d'Orsay and the l'Orangerie in that order...three distinct eras of art, centred in France in three distinct settings.  And each experience was sufficiently different that I could pick a favourite, although I had favourite moments and paintings in each.

And as I left l'Orangerie, the sky cleared sufficiently that left me with a decision to make:  what was left to see or do?

I had seen some (mass produced!) paintings by the stalls on the Left Bank the first afternoon I was in Paris -  stop one, after a walk along the Seine and the bars and souvenir shops of Saint Michel. And I wanted to see Paris from high up someplace - and since the Eiffel Tower was the obvious choice, I walked to the Arc de Triomphe. 

The Arc de Triomphe is France's National War Memorial, and given that Armistice/Remembrance Day is next week, I thought it would be a fitting last stop. The other thing is that the top of the Arc de Triomphe is a visitors' gallery with a museum of uniforms and battle honours on the two windowless floors below the top.   The view, surrounded by the symmetry of the radiating streets, was wonderful, and a fitting way to remember the city. 

A walk down les Champs Elesyees and back to my hotel to pack, and my week in Paris and Camino Pilgrimage is over. 

Today's Music:  Bocelli/Brightman The Farewell Song

Today's Paces:  14,991

Tomorrow's Prayer Intentions:  Travelling mercies

These boots are made for walking.

And today is the day I wish I had more than one set of footwear. While my hiking boots were admirable for walking the Camino, they were absolutely useless for standing in line and walking around an art gallery where there was much pausing, and standing still.  The boots really are made for walking!

The Musee d'Orsay is a re-purposed train station converted to an art museum. The large central gallery houses the statues, the side  galleries house the paintings. The big clocks set in the glass window remind me of the movie Hugo.  It features 19th-century French art culminating in the impressionist era. It is one of my favorite periods of French art, and I looked forward to today's visit.

First, the crowds.  I think from my time in Spain, I am still somewhat noise averse, and simply the shouting, yelling, and children got to me fairly quickly.  Then the guy in front of me in the line was smoking a rather obnoxious pipe. I tried to stay up wind of him as much as possible but it stank, and when he knocked it out lettiing the remnants fall to the ground I noticed other people in the line pointing and whispering. 

And then once we were in the museum, one of the visiting exhibits was called Splendour and Misery, exploring the life of prostitution in France in the 19th century through art, photography, and literature.  And although the taking of photographs is permitted in the rest of the museum, it was clearly marked at the entrance and several times before the first exhibit that photography was not allowed in this particular exhibition. Nevertheless the attendants had to repeatedly ask for people to put their cameras down and refrain from taking photographs.  And though was no age restriction on the exhibit itself, certain portions were curtained off to those who are 18 years of age are over which included paintings and drawings, photography, film, and explicit language. And just so you know, it was full frontal, a variety of sexual acts explicitly depicted, including oral, same-sex, and full penetration. I am glad that I wasn't one of the people bringing 10 or 11-year-old children, because I don't think they would be mature enough to have the conversation about prostitution.  It's one of those times where I think the sign should've said "this exhibit contains mature subject matter.  Viewer discretion is advised!"  But it was pretty good exhibit.

I walked over to Notre Dame for a concert in the evening of Bach cantatas accompanied by organ and a Mendelssohn work (motets Op. 69) that I didn't know. Unfortunately this was one of those times where the programs seemed to be hidden from view; i'm not quite sure what I listened to, and the acoustics of that building do not suit baroque choral music particularly well, but it was lovely!

Today's Music:  Nunc Dimittus (Mendelssohn Opus 69, 1)

Today's Paces:  13,500 estimated 'cause my phone died

Tomorrow's prayer intentions:  all the people to whom I will be returning home.

It was the best of times; it was the worst of times!

This is one of those days that started with the highest of expectations. I was going to visit the Louvre – arguably one of the finest museums in the world. I knew that it would be crowded – having seen the queues yesterday afternoon, I had purchased a priority entrance ticket at the Paris tourism Bureau.  But nothing prepared me for the sheer ignorance of many of the people at the Louvre.

And here's my rant: if you have no knowledge of the Bible, if you have no knowledge of Greek and Roman mythology, if you have no knowledge of Mediterranean antiquity, if you are bringing children, if you do not understand nudity, if you do not understand the ancient world, then please forgo the Louvre. There are lots of things in Paris that will amuse you without seeing the art. This was one of the most rewarding, and frustrating, days that I have experienced.  I heard grown-ups questioning Roman numerals; I saw bored children being dragged through galleries, I saw families trying to distract their children from the abundant nudity of Greek and Roman mythology, I was embarrassed by the number of people who were taking selfie's in front of pictures.  And then there were the crowds around the Mona Lisa. I know I have no taste, but there were even better da Vinci's in the neighboring gallery as well as Tintoretto's, and Canaletto's, the same gallery.

But it is the Louvre, and every significant genre of art before 1850 was present. I did see the Goyas; I did see the Delacroix; I did see the Hals.  Tomorrow, the Orsay.  I am so in need of impressionism!

Today's Music:   Marche Funebre (Chopin). Reflects my mood. 

Today's Paces:  11,919

Tomorrow's Prayer Intentions:  all souls, because I missed it today. Many people have inspired us in faith. I think my parents, my mother's mother Edna, and many friends who have opened my eyes to the light of faith.

Sunday afternoon at the Opera

This is been another one of those wondrous days in Paris. It began when I went to mass for All Saints at Saint-Sulpice this morning. The titular organist Daniel Roth was playing, which included the improvisation before the service, and the short recital afterwards.  My organist your friends will know the name Cavaille-Coll.   my non-organist friends need to know that he was the most important organ builder in France of the 19 century. The installation at Saint-Sulpice is considered to be his most important instrument, and certainly his largest. Some of the most famous organ composers in the world have worked in this building. Charles Marie Widor, Albert Schweitzer, Marcel Dupre.  Their organ compositions are legendary, and Dupre's Prelude and Fugue in B major is my absolute favorite organ work - here is a video of a student playing this on the Saint-Sulpice instrument with Roth himself pulling stops and turning pages.   ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lniaqocbLjM ). 

And just when I thought the fun was over, Siri walked me back to my hotel via the Louvre, the Paris Opera – also known as the Palais Garnier - and Holy Trinity Church, where Olivier Messiaen was the organist for so many years.

Aside from a rather mediocre novel and a certain hit musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber, the Paris Opera (aka the Palais Garnier) was amazing. They allowed visitors to see the house, the stage, and the Chagall ceiling. It really was worth the price of admission – even the reduced senior citizen admission for which I qualified!

The amazing hall, with its gilt, chandeliers, and mirrors, was brilliant, as well as the balconies that overlooked the main steps and the avenue de l'Opera.  It is one of the loveliest places in Paris!  Even without the associations with popular musicals, it is well worth a visit.

And then, as I was walking back to the hotel and walked by Sainte Trinitie church where Olivier Messiaen was the organist for so many years, I went in. There was an organist rehearsing Mussorgsky's pictures at an exhibition. I know it has been transcribed for organ, but hearing it even with the stops and starts of a rehearsal, was brilliant.

And so I ended my day at a resto bar near my hotel, having steak tartare and beer. All in all, a very fine day.

Today's Music:  Dupre Prelude and Fugue B major

Today's Paces:  15,100 (est)

Tomorrow's Prayer Intentions:  all those who have never been to Paris. They are missing the opportunity of a lifetime.

Were it not for the tourists

I am reconstructing this post from last night, where it apparently didn't save when I switched apps.  Oh well, live and learn. 

I walked over to the Arc de Triomphe this morning.  Siri and I are beginning to come to an understanding about directions...her accent is atrocious, and she doesn't quite grasp the notion that pedestrian crossings may be 20 metres away from an intersection, and she doesn't fully comprehend roundabouts from a pedestrian's point of view, but she's been pretty good about getting me through this maze called Paris. I'm now beginning to question my formerly quite good sense of direction!

It is also here that I had my. first encounter with the notoriously rude French waiters. Having ordered la petite dejeunner (orange juice, coffee, and a croissant), the orange juice and coffee arrived promptly. I was told the croissant would be a moment or two. Then I watched the waiter go to the curb, smoke a cigarette, go back and serve several tables, finally glance my way and remember that I was owed a croissant. He didn't appreciate my sentiment that I should have another coffee libre to go with my croissant. Fortunately tipping is not the custom. 

Les Champs Elysees is/are one of the tourist Meccas in Paris. Crowded, brash, full of people soliciting money by first asking if you speak English presumably because we Anglophones are more generous (or not yet onto the scam!), and American icons like Starbucks and McDonalds.  And it is here, in the Givenchy-Sephora store (where I was admiring some of the Halloween makeup) that I heard a petulant female voice complain, "doesn't anybody here speak American?"  Geesh!!

But for all the tourism of Les Champs Elysees, it is Avenue George V that is truly impressive.  I had gone down to see the American Cathedral (Episcopal) in Paris (which was locked, despite a sign stating otherwise), but noticed along the way a number of flagship stores for a very exclusive brands. The Bulgari store had a lovely necklace and set of earrings in the window for about €70,000. A little out of my price range. And then I went to a signature pen store – a Salvador Dali Montegrappa pen in the window had a €12,000 price tag. This district is definitely above my pay grade!

And this evening, after a little siesta in the afternoon, I walked back to Notre Dame. While it was my intention to go to the organ concert, I arrived in time for mass. And that is where the tourists became really offensive. There is no sense of reverence with those who are simply there to take pictures, or look at a place that has a popular history, I was offended at the number of people  who were taking photographs from the side aisles, or blatantly walking in front of people during the mass.  The only experience with which I can compare this is at the national Cathedral in Washington. Nevertheless, I need my communion for all saints, or as it is known in French Toussaints.  And I even understood enough of the homily, to grasp the fact that there is a wondrous expression of the mercy and grace of God to allow our human experience to extend into heaven.

And so today ended. With an organ concert and a metro trip back to my hotel.

Today's Music: Charles Tournemiere Victimae Paschali.  I didn't know the work though I should have   Here's a video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FbK-7QPjRVI

Today's Paces:  25,990 (est)

Tomorrow's Prayer Intentions:  all the saints who have touched our lives, inspired us, and made us better people because we think of them on our life's journey.