We started this morning in Pamplona. The author of the most famous guide, John Brierley, seems to have a penchant against city walking. He's wrong. In Pamplona, the way is clearly marked with chrome medallions set in the sidewalk as well as the usual blue and yellow signposts truly visible at every turn. We walked through the old city, across the square, past Ferdinand's gate, through the University of Navarre and into some gentle ascents and descents across the fields of Spain. If you recall the movie The Way, you may remember when Irish Jack joins the group expostulating on his philosophy of life (or lack thereof) amongst a bunch of haystacks. We passed those today!
We ate lunch at Zariquiegui, I sent prayers this beautiful Roman Catholic Romanesque chapel and then we began the ascent to Sierra del Perdon.
This is the famous location of the pilgrim statues made from wrought iron, with a spectacular view of the northern and southern vistas, the wind turbines along the ridge, and the moment of promised forgiveness of past sins in this world and a dispensation in the next.
But the Camino is not a gentle place. From the elation of the ascent of Sierra del Perdon you then engage a particularly difficult two kilometer descent through potato sized gravel, that takes your feet and twists them all the way up to your knee. Your walking sticks become your lifeline, and there is little you can do about it as the only way is down.
But the worst moment of the day was when I realized I had left my phone in Uterga near one of the albergues. When I discovered this at Puente le Reigne where we were spending the night, the proprietor said do not worry sir we will have your device to you by 8 o'clock tonight. He was wrong – they had located my phone and it was returned to me before 730! The Camino really does give more than it takes! I knew it would be crass to offer some euros for the return of my phone, but I told him I needed to express my gratitude in someway. When he discovered I was a priest, he said he would like me to say a mass for San Diego his patron, as well as the patron of the Camino. It will be my joyful pleasure to offer this mass when I get home.
Today's music: psalm 84 (Kings College Cambridge)
Today's paces: 32,864
Tomorrow's prayer intentions: gratitude for the kindness of the Camino
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